Crossing the Border into Laos
An early start this morning awoken by the alarm. We slept surprising well on the slabs no aches or pains at all.
A walk up to breakfast with a buffet spread of local rice, chicken dish, fried eggs, ham, hot dog sausages, toast and fruit. I was hoping to find some rice porridge but not today so settled for some eggs on toast with fruit. The coffee was just instant with powdered milk... Eekk.
Shortly after breakfast we were all packed into the back of an open truck along with our luggage for the short ride down to the river and the border crossing. We completed our departure formalities with Thai immigration and were then loaded onto a long boat for the short trip across the river into Laos. Today the port was not so busy, yet still many tourists, mainly backpackers as we all lined up to complete the formalities for a visa on arrival and pay our $30 USD. We also exchanged Thai Bart for Laos Kip. Ending up with 657,000 Kip for about $70 AUD.
A short walk up the road and we were boarded on another truck transport with the bike bags on the roof for the short trip to our boat for the 7 HR journey down the Mekong to Pak Beng in Laos.
The river is the life blood of so many local Thai and Laos people for food, water, growing rice and as a pathway for travel. The local transport are small long boats or speed boats with a long pipe with a rotor which propels the boat along at high speed. The passengers all sit on the floor of the boat with some wearing motor bike helmets to guard from the water splashes, which looks very strange. Given they don't wear helmets when riding motor bikes on the road it seemed completely strange they wear them on the river.
Our boat is very comfortable with what look like seats from buses set with tables on either side, with a dining area near the rear, a bar with food and drinks and a white board with prices of some items. Beer Lao 20000 Kip, coke 10000 Kip. It's a fascinating journey watching as we go by the lush green landscape on both sides of the river. In some areas every inch of the land including the very steep hillsides have been hand ploughed and are growing rice. This is the lively hood of these families as they have no job, but must grow food for themselves, and sell what they can to get some income. As a longer term investment some families have planted teak trees, which will mature in 30-40 years and they can sell to get their retirement savings. Our guide Chit tells us that he has some teak trees planted himself that he will sell later when he is close to retirement.
After about 90 minutes into our journey the boat driver slows down and must stop at a government checkpoint on the Laos side of the river. It is compulsory for him to show his boat drivers license and to pay money to use the river. The boat drivers do not like having to pay this money which they believe goes directly to the corrupt government people, but as Lao still only has one communist political party they have no say and no choice but to pay.
The government jobs in Laos are also not well paid which is why there is so much under the table exchanges of money and such payments as the boat driver must pay keep they money flowing.
At one stage along the river our guide points out the work underway to build a bridge across the river which is expected to be finished in about 2 years time. This will be a big development and increase the trade between the two countries, as well as the trade between Thailand and China. The route across the river and through Laos is heavily used for goods to and from China.
Of course there will be a negative impact on the local community in particular the barge owners who depend on the income they get from the tourists and all the trucks who they port across the river all day every day.
Lunch is cooked by the wife of the boat driver and is served on the dining table for us. Deep fried local caught fish, noodle soup with some pork mince and vegetables, vegetable stir fry, stemmed rice and omlete. We chat with our guide Chit about our tour and about the history of Lao.
We eventually arrive at Pak Beng around 3pm. A small village on the river with several guest houses spread along the river front amongst other shops and houses. We walk up to our guest house for the night and are shown to our rooms on the second floor. A small room with 2 single beds a tv, ceiling fan and a tiny bathroom very clean with wood panelling on the ceilings and walls.
Since arriving we feel much warmer here in Pak Beng it is more humid and no breeze or wind to cool us. we decide a Laos beer is in order to quench the thirst and cool us down so head to the restaurant in the guest. Laos beer is available in large bottles so we order one for 20,000 Kip! It goes down very fast and tastes great.
Our bikes are brought up from the river and we proceed to unpack and assemble them. It takes close to an hour to get all the parts together and do a short test ride to ensure all the gears and brakes are operating. Hot work as we sweat profusely! Hmm must be time for antihero Beer Laos..
I dash off for a shower before dinner is served on the outside balcony of the guest house overlooking the river. A great location again. Very picturesque.
Vegetable broth soup, chicken curry, vegetable curry, deep friend fish with lemon grass and steamed rice. Very fresh and delicious.
Our guide Chit gives us a lesson in Laos history which is very interesting including his own story of living on the land with his parents and 6 brothers and sisters. How his father spent 4 years in the re-education camp (prison camp) during the communist regeim.
We retire for the night at 9.30 with our ceiling fan blowing full speed on our slab beds thinking of our first ride day tomorrow of 80kms.
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